The Felder Felder girls – twins Daniela and Annette – fluffed up their usual grunge-rebellion style during London Fashion Week for a collection that was about flaunting it if you’ve got it just as much as it has been before (there was some serious exposed back action going on), but this time came with the added extra of mohair, nubbly wool and quilting too. An eclectic mix, it made it a little hard to picture where you might wear a super lean dress but rendered in the aforementioned fuzz. The same went for the bras. More interesting was their play with miniskirts and long-trailing coats.
Brilliant quilted skirts with mesh paneling were descended from a watercolor Richter print, topped off with a somewhat unforgiving bralet top in mohair that provided cleavage and an exposed midriff at the same time. (Well, the Felders have always been body-con advocates.) Mohair coats with gold Lurex made the blurred lines print pop even more. They were followed by the now familiar Felder Felder skater dress, which, along with waist insert cutouts and one-shouldered looks, drove that body-con thing home.
The Felders experimented with laser cutting on leather pieces, adding a layer of organza underneath to mix things up. (“We always like contrast because of the twin thing,” explained Daniela backstage.) Then came a blond-hair-like fabric, as if it just came off the spool, encased in plastic and sewn on blush pink pieces. It was an effect reminiscent of cutting off a lock of flaxen baby hair and pressing it into a favorite book for safekeeping. Feathered pieces followed, with Annette explaining that each piece took four weeks of hand-stitching to create. All fine, but with a yellow feathered dress—beautiful though it was—the designers had better brace themselves for some Big Bird comparisons.
From the first look on, it was clear the Felders were making a statement on fabric, prints, and color, with silhouette coming second. That may well change next season, though, as Annette is seven months pregnant. There is nothing quite like a post-baby body to make one rethink the shape and fit of clothes.